Top 50 Sicilian Wines 2013
by Luigi Salvo and the editorial staff
Ten months of tastings in various occasions, great events, winery visits, editorial meetings. The Top 50 of more than 1500 Sicilian wines tasted means to be a widespread vision of the best of Sicilian wines, a representative image of the production trend of excellence. In these past five years the average quality of Sicilian wines has risen considerably. Many excellent wines have been, with great regret, excluded in this listing of the fifty most representative samples.
Remarkable upswing in the production of Sicilian sparkling wines both Classic and Charmat method. More than fifty have been tasted, many qualitatively exceptional, others trend-followers. Many high-level white wines have met renewed interest in authoctonous varieties. The Grillo variety comes through with various facets in different productive areas.
Carricante from Etna expresses best excellent peaks while Catarratto stands well giving wines of great interest. Le aromatic varieties Malvasia and Moscato vinified without residual sugar, point on freshness. The international varieties expressing themselves very enjoyable are made with less wood.
The concept of territory prevails in red wines, the most significant change concerns the Nero d’Avola variety produced throughout the region. The variety is now bound with terroirs better suited to its characteristics. Following this trend the blending with international varieties is reduced.
Great upturn for Nerello Mascalese which rediscovers the old vines upon the Etna slopes that give unique wines. Well appreciated results during the tastings. The international red variety we most appreciated is Syrah although Sicily-produced Cabernet Sauvignons present very interesting traits. Positive signs also from the Cerasuolo di Vittoria area where overall quality wines are produced.
Our choice of sweet and special wines could have been at least twice as long considering the superb terroir of Pantelleria and Salina and high quality Marsala. This category of wines made in Sicily are of great appeal in all parts of the world.
The list of Top Wines includes four categories, respectively:
4 Sparkling, 18 White, 23 Red and 5 Sweet/Special Wines
SPARKLING WINES
Benanti Noblesse Extra Brut Carricante (Ct)
A great wine, thin and persistent perlage, evolved hints of yellow peach, medlar, yeast and peanut butter are relesed to nose and mouth. Smooth and luring drink, rich of lively acidity and long savory finish.
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Milazzo Brut Inzolia\Chardonnay (Ag)
Intense perlage, pleasing its determined and direct nose with notes of bread crust, floreal, peach and pineapple fruit. Well-structured and delightful on the nose, silk and cream with backround of vivacious acidity. Long fruity finish and mineral after-taste.
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Murgo Extra Brut Nerello Mascalese 2006 (Ct)
Golden yellow, rich of fine perlage, generous nose of sponge cake, notes of citrus, peach and herbal hints. Fullness, structure and elegance contribute to an enjoyable tasting of softness balanced by notable acid-sapid presence with long, persistent after-aroma.
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Tasca D’Almerita Almerita Extra Brut Chardonnay 2007 (Pa)
A luminous glass filled with thin perlage, richly intricate on nose and mouth rendering scents of pineapple, citrus, peach, shortbread, and toasted hazelnut. Freshness and embracing roundness fulfill the palate. Unmistakable.
WHITE WINES
Baglio di Pianetto Ficiligno Inzolia\Viognier 2011 (Pa)
A surprisingly effective blend of two varieties. A fine intese aroma of wisteria, orange blossom, plum, honeydew melon and spices. Great fruity and fresh approach, great persistence and mineral hints.
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Benanti Etna Bianco Sup. Pietramarina Carricante 2009 (Ct)
Splendid wine, elegant synthesis of variety and territory. Bursting olfactory and distinctly mineral sensations, flint, thin grass, thymes and sage. Instant freshness of white peach and pear. Mineral on the palate with citrus returns and persistence. Great nose-palate correspondence.
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Barbera Coste al Vento Grillo 2012 (Ag)
Great character and determination this Grillo that releases delicately engraved fragrances of peach and yellow melon, oregano and spices. Softness and acidity caress the palate sliding towards an enjoyable sapidity.
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Caruso e Minini Isula Catarratto 2012 (Tp)
Sicily’s most widespread variety reaches excellent quality levels. Isula wine has a varied nose of wisteria and broom, yellow peach, white pepper and salish hints. Correspondence with the mouth where fruit and alcohol are well supported by acidity. Full and persistent finish.
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Castellucci Miano Shiarà Catarratto 2010 (Pa)
A confirm to its olfactory charm and persistent nose-palate mouthfeel. Embracing intense bouquet of fresh meadow flowers, lemon grass, pear, lemon candy, nettle, ginger and herbs. Tense incipit opening then with a great fresh, mineral and citrus finish.
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Cristo di Campobello Lalùci Grillo 2012 (Ag)
New conception of Grillo of great intensità, clear hints of green apple, honeydew melon, sage, citrus and mineral notes. Opening sip rich of fruit and spices followed by a trail of freshness and enjoyable sapidity
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De Bartoli Sole e Vento Zibibbo\Grillo 2012 (Tp)
Captivating intense and sweet aromas, apricot, white peach, orange blossoms, and wild fennel. Enters silently then bursts with great mineral palate. Perfect mix of softness and salinity to a great zibibbo aromatic finish.
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Disisa Chara Catarratto\Inzolia 2012 (Pa)
The blending of two native varieties creates a wine of great drinking pleasure. Rich in wisteria, fruity peach and citrus notes and herbal nuances. Integrity and freshness entice its tasting then slowly dissolves into clear olfactory lures.
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Feudo Cavaliere Etna Bianco Carricante 2011 (Ct)
Elegance and intensity on the nose with aromas of plums, yellow peach, basil and acacia flowers. Mouth-filling with rich pomegranate notes and sage, perfect balance between alcohol and freshness. Good sapidity, very enjoyable although well-structured.
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Feudo Montoni Vigna della Timpa Grillo 2012 (Ag)
Montoni enchants even with its white wines. The high altitudes of the vineyards grant fresh aromas of lemon blossom, broom, fruity apple and pear, aromatic herbs, hay. Generous and coherent in the mouth with good sapidity and an intriguing spicy finish
Fondo Antico Grillo Parlante 2012 (Tp)
.Ten years since its first vintage, this Grillo wine remains a reference point for its distinguishing pleasantness. Clear aromas of broom, honeydew melon, peach, tangerine and herbal notes. Vibrant in the mouth with an enticing soft ending
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Funaro Pinzeri Grillo 2012 (Tp)
Great fruit and freshness reveals consistent notes of yellow peach, citrus, nettle, fern and green pepper. Sapid tendency in the mouth elegantly balanced by glyceric smoothness. Extended finish with appraising after- aroma.
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Girolamo Russo Nerina Etna Bianco Carricante\a.v. 2012 (Ct)
Great expression of the Etna territory. Rich olfactory range of broom flower sensations, exotic fruit, rosemary herb, flint and savoury minerality. Firm citrus sapidity on the palate that simmers recalling almond and citrus fruit.
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Graci Etna Bianco Quota 600 Carricante\Catarratto 2011 (Ct)
Intense aromas entice with delightful notes of acacia and hawthorn flowers, white-pulp fruit, citrus and vegetal sensations. Amazes the mouth with great sapidity, well-structured and rampant. Extraordinary freshness and elegance.
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Tarucco Colonna Grillo\Chardonnay 2012 (Pa)
The wine upholds with steady vigour. A rich bouquet that varies from floral to fruit scents of grapefruit, white peach, sour apple, green olive and sage. An alternation of sapidity and citrus freshness along with a well-balanced flavor melange with long-lasting finish.
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Tasca D’Almerita Cavallo delle Fate Grillo 2012 (Pa)
The grape variety praises its distinguishing traits, scents of hawthorn, yellow peach, hints of sage and green pepper. Great embracing lively drinking fulfillment combining acidity, mellowness and persistent aftertaste
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Tenuta di Fessina Etna Bianco A’ Puddara Carricante 2010 (Ct)
A great Carricante that captures with its olfactoral intensity where broom and lemon blossom encounter ripened white fruit, spices and vegetal nuances. Unique taste characterised by the volcanic terroir with pronounced sapidity and hints of smoke that continue along to an intriguing fruit finish.
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Vivera Etna Bianco Salisire Carricante 2011 (Ct)
Its characteristics remain fixed in the nose and palate. Scents of jasmine, peach, citrus and spice sensations, mineral hints. Joyful freshness and fulfillment on the palate due to fruityness and great sapid persistence.
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RED WINES
Alessandro di Camporeale Kaid Syrah 2010 (Pa)
This wine comes from Camporeale, great territory for syrah grape variety. Very intriguing bouquet with scents of maraschino, cocoa, coffee, cloves and black pepper. Full on the palate where spices alternate with fruity sweetness, an acid spine and pleasant tannins.
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Archineri Pietradolce Etna Rosso Archineri Nerello Mascalese 2010 (Ct)
Poliedric on the nose, macerated red rose, currant, blackberry, humus, underwood, earthy notes and dark spices. The energetic crisp fruit, notes of pepper and resin seduce the palate while lively tannins and a sapid array mark their presence.
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Avide Cerasuolo di Vittoria Barocco Nero d’avola\Frappato 2006 (Rg)
Refined aromatic performance, generous hints of cherry, red berries, fresh scents of rasberry then ash and black pepper. Coherence, amenity, tannic rigour and a determined sapid spine are the four aces at tasting. Fulfilling persistence with aromatic herbal returns.
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Benanti Etna Rosso Serra della Contessa Nerello Mascalese\Nerello Cappuccio 2008 (Ct)
A wine that is an assertion of quality and excellence tradition. The nose is captured by the delicacy of wild strawberries and rasberries on a fresh leaf platter. Vulcanic minerality and exquisite eucalyptus mist, hay and ground coffee. Great freshness in the mouth, slender masterly long-lasting tannins.
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Biondi Etna Rosso Cisterna Fuori Nerello Mascalese\Nerello Cappuccio 2011 (Ct)
Stratospheric mix of elegance and power. Intense olfactory profile of red rose, sour cherry and currant fruit, cloves, hints of leather and Mediterranean scrub. Extensive sip of lively freshness with continuing fruit and mineral returns.
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Bonavita Faro Nerello Macalese\Nerello Cappuccio\Nocera 2010 (Me)
Well describes its territory, tense and mineral. Releases fresh fruits of red mulberry, notes of Mediterranean scrub, spices, humus, thriving graphite. The palate is overwelmed by vibrant fruit, intense balsamic acidity, elegant tannins than remain in the long thin and spicy sip
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Caruso & Minini Delia Nivolelli Syrah 2008 (Tp)
Great expression of enjoyable drinking, intense olfactorial profile of blackberry and sour cherry, withered flowers, cloves, potpourri of sweet spices, balsam and vanilla. Fulfilling palate sustained by fine, smooth tannins and persistent spicy final.
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Cristo di Campobello Lù Patri Nero d’Avola 2010 (Ag)
Power and elegance, releases a poliedric array of scents, notes of morello and sour cherry, eucalyptus, tobacco, chocolate, black pepper and vanilla. Wide range of flavors in the mouth, complex tannins, great freshness and fruit- sapid persistence.
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Donnafugata Mille e una Notte Nero d’Avola\Cabernet\Merlot\Syrah 2008 (Tp)
Sicily’s leading grape variety with a 20% of internationals, reveals an aromatic diffusion of plum and sour cherry, leather, tobacco, balsamic notes and sweet spices. A sip of refined elegance within alcolic power and flavor freshness. Noble tannic texture and good nose-palate correspondence.
Feudo Maccari Saia Nero d’Avola 2010 (Sr)
Enhancing wide aromatic range of cherry, violet, brine, capers, black olives, humus, balsamic hints and licorice root. In the mouth presents potential and structure, well-integrated tannins and a sapid veil that goes through its lengthly finish.
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Feudo Montoni Vrucara Nero d’Avola 2009 (Ag)
The pure essence of the Nero d’Avola reveals itselfs with violet, prune and maraschino cherries, cloves, chocolate, licorice, light hints of graphite and vanilla. Warm and balsamic sip reveals good freshness, fine tannins and long spicy finish.
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Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso San Lorenzo Nerello Mascalese\Nerello Cappuccio 2010 (Ct)
Unique character due to its unrefined elegance with notes of rose, red berries, sweet and piquant spices, humus and direct earthy and mineral hints. Great freshness in the mouth and proper alcohol level. Distinguishing tannic texture and penetrative mineral finish.
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Graci Etna Rosso Quota 1000 Contrada Barbabecchi Nerello Mascalese 2010 (Ct)
A wine of great personalità, enhancing rich nose of macerated red flowers, rasberry fruit, red ribes, ruhbarb, ginger, earthy notes and sweet tobacco. Awakening fresh mouth, good tannis and continuous sapid-fruit after-aroma to entice following sips.
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Gulfi Neromaccarj Nero d’Avola 2008 (Rg)
An austere personalità displays its refined array of blueberry and black prune, small red fruits, soil, black olive and mentholated tobacco. Silky, fine tannic structure overlays its vigorous and tonic body. A long fading finish with locorice notes and oriental spices
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Marabino Eloro Pachino Archimede Riserva Nero d’Avola 2010 (Sr)
A potential Nero d’Avola with intense and versatile aroma of cherry, plum, citrus notes, cocoa, cinnamon, graphite and aromatic herbs. Vivid pulsing flavor, fruity freshness and balsamic tones. Lively and embracing tannins with
great sapid finish.
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Occhipinti Frappato 2010 (Rg)
Vigoreus nose-mouth cohesion for this pure-breed. Seducing nose of rasberry candy, spirited prunes, sweet notes of tobacco, graphite and chocolate. Full freshness in the mouth, light tannins, fruit fullness and deep mineral vein.
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Palmeri Rosso Nero d’Avola, C. Sauvignon, Marcelan, Syrah 2009 (Sr)
Surprising for its character and personalità. Releases nobil mentholated and resinous sensations on the nose with blackberry, alcohol currant, cocoa powder, licorice and balsamic notes. Sumptuous palate with fruit and vanilla freshness, noble tannins, spicy and mineral long finish.
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Passopisciaro Contrada Porcaria Nerello Macalese 2008 (Ct)
Among Franchetti’s cru this is the most concentrated and interesting. On the nose it expresses mineral and graphite sensations fulfilled by sweet cherry and rasberry notes, cardamom and humus. Mineral balance and silk potential fill the mouth with lengthly finish.
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Planeta Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico Dorilli Nero d’Avola\Frappato 2011 (Rg)
This wine’s dinamism fulfills expectations. The nose tends towards red rose and iris curdled by plum pulp and light tobacco. Enticing mouth marked by a refined alcohol burst, by a noble tannic weave and a fine persistent finish.
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Tasca D’Almerita Contea di Sclafani Rosso del Conte Nero d’Avola, Perricone e a.v. 2009 (Pa)
Great vintage with a very enticing nose and hints of marasca cherry and mulberry, sweet spices, licorice, fine menthol and light toasting. Potential and fresh in the mouth with embracing tannins, long finish and sapid, spicy long after-taste
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Tenuta Gatti Sincè Nocera 2010 (Me)
Unmistakably unique. Enhancing with its fresh bouquet of cherry and plum, moss and spices. The mouth entrée is fulfilling with notable tannin, continuing with olfactory returns sustained by good acidity and an esquisite sapid spine.
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Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso Santo Spirito Nerello Mascalese\N.Cappuccio 2011 (Ct)
Enduring charme. Olfactorial plot blazes through scents of violet, rasberry and wild berries, mineral notes, hydrocarbon and fumé. Rich tasting slow and relentless pureness, freshness, tannins and great persistence
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Tenuta di Fessina Etna Rosso il Musmeci Nerello Mascalese 2009 (Ct)
A real ace this wine, wild rose on the nose together with blackberry bush, currant, fresh aromatic herbs and spices masterly combined with wood. Great progression of flavors on the palate with intriguing aromatic returns. The tannic texture envolves the mouth savantly while the fruity sapidity dominates the long balsamic finish.
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SWEET/SPECIAL WINES
De Bartoli Passito di Pantelleria Bukkuram Zibibbo 2007 (Tp)
Enticing. Rich aromas of raisins, dried figs, dates, honey, apricot, balsamic hints and aromatic herbs invade the nose. The sip is embracing and sensual. As a real champion leaps in lively freshness exquisitely balancing the residual sugar.
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De Bartoli Vecchio Samperi Ventennale Grillo (Tp)
A unique ancestral wine. The glass releases notes of dried figs, carobs, coffee, cocoa, pecan husk, cinnamon , vanilla and cumin. Powerful and embracing sip with great olfactorial returns enhanced by alcolic warmth and endless finish.
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Donnafugata Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryè Zibibbo 2011 (Tp)
A treasure of candied apricot, raisins, saffron, lemon flower honey, dried figs, mineral and spiced notes. The fulfilling sip is enhanced by the sweet and velvety taste, balanced by an elegant and harmonic sapidly-fresh spine. Great fruit finish and extensive minerality.
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Hauner Malvasia delle Lipari Passito Selezione Malvasia\Corinto Nero 2009 (Me)
Pleasantly seduces with its intense aroma of canned peaches, candied apricots, dried figs, orange blossom honey, mediterranean aromatic herbs and savory hints. Mellowed in the mouth, embracing silk, warmth and a great masterly sapid-acid spine.
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Marabino Moscato di Noto Moscato della Torre Moscato Bianco 2011 (Sr)
Aromatic symphony of apricot marmalade, dried figs, dates, oriental spices, almond candy and confectioners’ sugar. Its fresh and radiant character present a fulfilling sip, embracing and intense. Wonderfully long sweet-savory finish.
Translation by Marialina Bommarito